employee
Kazan', Kazan, Russian Federation
Kazanskiy Fiziko-Tehnicheskiy Institut im. E.K. Zavoyskogo FIC KazNC RAN
Russian Federation
Peptides are small proteins introduced into cosmetic products to achieve a local rejuvenating effect through mechanisms such as reducing muscle contractions, preventing the formation of expression wrinkles, and regenerating and repairing damaged tissue cells. Peptides are widely used in the cosmetic industry due to their high safety profile, broad applicability, versatility on the skin, and the ability to be conjugated with other cosmetic ingredients. Muscle relaxant peptides (neuropeptides) have a rejuvenating Botox-like effect, softening facial features, improving skin tone, and strengthening collagen fibers, preventing the formation of new wrinkles. This study investigated the colloidal chemical properties of two peptides: acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) and the dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate (Syn-ake), and demonstrated the possibility of their inclusion in cosmetic creams. Using a scientific approach, the concentration ratios of surfactants in the mixture were selected. The effect of varying surfactant contents on the activity of the components and the formation of stable cosmetic systems was demonstrated. Peptide/surfactant synergy was studied by measuring the corresponding interfacial (surface) tension and calculating the interaction parameter at the phase boundary. It was found that with increasing peptide concentration, surface tension decreases, indicating some surface activity of these peptides, which significantly improves the stability of the cosmetic product. Formulations for a facial cream containing broad-spectrum peptides were developed. The physicochemical and organoleptic properties of the developed cream were studied. It was shown that the use of the Argireline peptide resulted in a denser cream structure, as evidenced by a more negative value for the surfactant-peptide interaction parameter.
PEPTIDES, LIFTING EFFECT, CREAM, ANTI-AGING EFFECT, INTERACTION PARAMETER, OPTIMAL RATIO OF SURFACTANTS
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